BLACKlog

Elliot Ward-Fear AW 2012 'Flame' collection - shot by Thom Kerr and starring Liv O'Driscoll

2012-02-01T15:32:00.001+13:00

Drawing inspiration from "ancient Chinese warriors, medieval battle armour and 1970's science-fiction heroines", Elliot Ward-Fear's AW 2012 collection, aptly entitled 'Flame' supports the belief of many that Ward-fear is a fashion superstar in the making. The collection is comprised of one-off, made to order separates and features luxurious fabrications including Japanese fabric paper, gold lame, double-knot ponte, moleskin and a brushed suiting-grade wool/cashmere blend. One of the designer's signature notions with each range is the development of a character that Ward-Fear feels embodies the spirit of each collection's aesthetic. 'Flames' protagonist is an ancient warrior Princess, brought to life in this space-age rendition by NZ model Liv O'Driscoll (at Chadwick/Red 11/MHI) and shot by Sydney-based Black photographer Thom Kerr. Stylist Cassandra Scott-Finn who collaborated with Kerr on the fabulous God In An Alcove shoot in the latest issue of Black styles up a storm, turning O'Driscoll into a "futuristic battle-ready bombshell" with make-up by Becca Gilmartin and hair by Lauren McCowan. Assistants on the shoot were Anastasia Spathis and Brian Le. From cut-out mini-dresses, cropped lace-up tops and jackets to high-waisted pants or embellished arm and leg guards, Ward-Fear displays his own unique vision of a fashion future, right now.

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL #21: Gianluca Santoro shoots Robyn Lawley

2012-01-27T21:49:00.000+13:00

Top and choker by Emporio Armani, corset and heels by House of Priscilla, ring by Gucci

Robyn Lawley has graced the pages of Vogue Italia, French Elle and many other magazines in recent times. She is larger in 'size' than your average fashion model but this really means very little as, quite simply, she is hot and we love her. Photography by Gianluca Santoro and fashion by Tiana Wallace @ Viviens Creative, make-up by Natasha Severino @ Company 1 for YSL Beaute, hair by NZ's own Richard Kavanagh @ DLM for Redken NYC, assistant: Eric Altomare, all in a truly 'Black' style. Look out for an interview with Robyn in issue #16 of Black...

Left: Vintage dress from The Vintage Clothing Store, briefs by Nearly Nude,
bra by Pleasure State, harness by Scanlan and Theodore, boots by Friend of Mine

Jumpsuit by Alice McCall, heels by Prada, choker and belt by Shakuhachi

Left: Bodysuit by Prada, gloves by Gucci
Right: Bra and briefs and rope necklace by Calvin Klein,
heels by House of Priscilla

Left: Fur coat from Grandma Takes A Trip, heels by Prada
Right: Bra by Pleasure State, dress by Alex Perry, vintage coat by Azzedine Alaiam
harness by Scanlan and Theodore

Georgia's Not So Little Secret

2012-01-27T12:52:00.002+13:00

New Zealand model followers will probably know by now that Kiwi model Georgia Fowler, recently signed to N Model Management here in Aotearoa, has shot for Victoria's Secret. This is no small feat given the particular, almost obsessive nature of the VS casting process. "Picture perfect' girls are required so congrats must go to the 19 year-old NZ beauty for making the grade, bigger things await...

Topshop Spring/Summer 2012 Campaign

2012-01-24T13:50:00.002+13:00

A definite king in the retail department, Topshop share their Spring/Summer 2012 campaign images with us photographed by Josh Olins.

This season sees Topshop play with ideas such as "surf luxe" mixing acid brights with pastel shades, "Aztec and Native-American", "festival stylings" of rock and roll inspired lace inserts and "blanket-wear", and "south pacific" a highbred of contrasting kaleidoscopic baroque borders, animal prints and high octane hibiscus florals which are all brought together by stylist Kate Phelan (ex-British Vogue Fashion Director). Models Magdalena Laguinge, who we are a little nuts over here at Black, and Nadine Ponce beautifully embody that aspirational, youthful spirit and powerful energy that is Topshop. Go get some!

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL # 20: "Il buono, il brutto, il cattivo" Inside the World of Tango by Calypso Paoli

2012-01-18T12:57:00.002+13:00

One of Auckland's gems, hidden inside Little High Street's arcade is the notorious vintage store, Tango. Tango's pieces are sourced and curated from all over of world, including New Zealand, by owner Driss Lambaraa from Morocco. The store boasts a 30 year collection, seeing Driss traveling back to Europe every year, visiting markets and auctions to add to his collection. He has a true love for vintage jewellery, clothing, accessories, furniture and art work from every era and is a claimed 'connoisseur' in everything vintage. Tango also supplies many pieces to films made here in New Zealand and to local stylists for various magazines.

To celebrate some of the found treasures inside Tango's world, Zach Robertson and Isaac Silva Looker at N Model Management were adorned in western leather and American denim, channeling films such as The Good the Bad and the Ugly, classic Sergio Leone's spaghetti westerns and inspirational actors such as Clint Eastwood and James Dean; Giant and Rebel Without a Cause. Photographed by Calypso Paoli and styled by Yasmine Ganley. All clothing and jewellery from Tango.

BLK #16: Paul Empson and Sam Ranger shoot Valerija Kelava in London

2012-01-16T17:48:00.000+13:00

Valerija for NY Time's T Mag by Richard Burbridge

As the new year kicks in we're pleased to say our third fashion editorial for BLK #16 has been completed in London. Photographer Paul Empson and fashion editor Sam Ranger have shot one of the great rock'n'roll models of our time, Valerija Kelava. Kelava, a favourite of Paolo Roversi, David Sims and Glen Luchford among others exudes a devil-may-care androgeny that Patti Smith would be proud of. She crosses boundaries by simply being Valerija Kelava which is perhaps why Tai Missoni looks so comfortable with her (below). BLK #16 out end of April...

Tai Missoni and Valerija by Jurgen Teller for Missoni campaign 2011

Valerija by David Sims for Jil Sander Navy campaign, 2011

Valerija by Knopfel and Indelkofer for Paris Vogue, Dec 2011

Paul Smith campaign, F/W 2011

Photo Essay: Little Odessa by Adam Custins and Valery Gherman - The Beach

2012-01-09T18:43:00.001+13:00

Boardwalk Empire, Brighton Beach styles...

Photo Essay: Little Odessa by Adam Custins and Valery Gherman - People

2012-01-09T18:35:00.000+13:00

There are times when we wish Black was a 1000-page magazine so that we could actually publish all of the fantastic work our contributors deliver. It is an economy of scale of course, but here online there are no limits. Over two posts here is Adam Custins and Valery Gherman's splendid day on Brighton Beach, which we could only dedicate six pages to in BLK #15. Gherman, Black's New York Editor was born in Odessa in the Ukraine before first immigrating to New Zealand and then New York. Brighton Beach, on the south-western tip of Long Island is known as 'Little Odessa' because of the proliferation of Ukrainians and as these pictures show, many more nations. Here are the people they encountered on that day, a multi-national sea of Speedos, tans and sunshine captured by Custins' quiver of instant cameras and film stocks - including Impossible Project. Intro by Valery Gherman.

I was born in the Ukrainian city of Odessa, and whilst my family immigrated to New Zealand, many of my relatives migrated to a neighbourhood in Brooklyn, New York called Brighton Beach, AKA, Little Odessa. Living in Manhattan, I manage to visit the neighbourhood regularly and take in the atmosphere, familiar smells, and the cast of characters. Most Jewish immigrants of the 1970’s and 1980’s from the former Soviet Union to New York were drawn to the Brighton Beach neighbourhood and whilst they came from all over the Soviet Union, the majority came from my city of birth, Odessa - hence the name ‘Little Odessa’ and its distinct cultural flavor. Today the neighbourhood is still the hub and magnet of the Russian-speaking population, as well as attracting people from all over the city for its raucous restaurants, cabarets, and of course, its famous boardwalk and beach. Here is a glimpse into a typical summer day at the beach, captured by fellow New Zealander Adam Custins. Valery Gherman.

We'd like to make an introduction, or two...

2012-01-08T16:34:00.000+13:00

Every issue of Black we like to give our art director, Ian Ferguson at Friends Of Design, a little room to play with the opening pages. Ian's art direction, in partnership with creative director Rachael Churchward, and the editors, is a moveable creative feast each issue - rules are 'no rules' - yet the overall template remains largely analogous. Here, in no particular order are the opening pages of the fashion and beauty shoots as they appear in BLK #15...

Happy New Year!

2012-01-06T09:08:00.001+13:00

The sun has set on 2011 - although anyone living in New Zealand will know that this photo wasn't taken on New Year's Eve - and Twenty Twelve is rolling in. As you may have noticed we have been taking a much needed break with family, friends and a lot of great TV series (Homeland, incredible; Dexter, still good; Game of Thrones, got better and better). 2012 is going to be an exciting year for us here at Black Magazine. We are going to three issues per year, will be publishing Black on three different digital platforms and we are planning a larger online presence all round. Wherever you are, whatever your weather, we hope you have a happy new year. Grant & Rachael x

A Little Shopping Après-ski?

2011-12-21T17:39:00.002+13:00

The sun has finally come out in Auckland but if you are a Chanel fan and also like to ski you might consider making your way to Courchevel in the French alps. The great house has established a 'temporary boutique' in the mountain resort replete with four ceramic Madmoiselle Chanel figures, each over two metres tall, outside. Inside it is a stripped down, neutral affair with plenty of concrete, light boxes and splashes of colour. The boutique will house Karl Lagerfeld's 2011/12 Cruise collection alongside the Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 collection. So if you are in the area, you could do worse than visit the Chanel's winter wonderland in Courchevel.

BLK #15: Cover 2: Gertrud Hegelund by Chadwick Tyler

2011-12-16T15:28:00.001+13:00

Friday afternoon, the perfect time to post our second cover. Louis Vuitton campaign star Gertrud Hegelund is captured by Chadwick Tyler in a shoot that references the great escape artist Houdini. Fashion editor Michelle Cameron places her in a Chanel jumpsuit for this cover, hair by Shin Arima and make-up by the great make-up artist, Valery Gherman. Have a great weekend - copies on sale around New Zealand next week.

Seeing The World Through Patsy Eyes

2011-12-14T00:12:00.000+13:00

On the fourteenth day of December, my true love said to me, forget about the rest, just put a pair of Karen Walker Patsys under my tree. We understand, so do a number of It Girls and actresses around the globe if the Patsy frame's popularity is anything to go by. Bright, shiny, pop and unflinchingly fuschia the Patsy is a stand out in anyone's eyes and we have a pair to give away - just in time for Christmas and the summer-we-are-expecting-anytime-soon. Simply go to our Facebook page to enter!

BLK #15: Cover 1: Anna de Rijk by Paul Empson

2011-12-12T10:40:00.001+13:00

Today, the good ship Black officially sets sail again after spending a couple of years grounded on the rocks of recession. To celebrate here is the first of our two covers for the issue which is at the printers; Anna de Rijk in Louis Vuitton, shot by Paul Empson, styled by Sam Ranger, hair by Halley Brisker, make-up by AshleyWard. We'll post the second cover by Chadwick Tyler, later this week...

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL # 19: Backstage Karen Walker SS12 NY show by Adam Custins

2011-12-08T17:58:00.001+13:00

Black photographer and contributor Adam Custins is a master of instant film, of that we are quite sure. He recently spent a couple of months in the Big Apple, New York City, and captured these amazing backstage images from the Karen Walker S/S 12 show for Black. We adore both KW and Adam, enjoy...

Helmut Newton: Polaroids

2011-12-04T12:39:00.001+13:00

When three of our favourite things; Helmut Newton, instant film and Taschen coalesce in the catalogue of photographic and fashion genius that is Helmut Newton; Polaroids we tend to find 'our happy place' as those ads for Sky TV say. Taschen have released the catalogue of hitherto unseen Newton images to accompany what is surely a wonderful exhibition at the Museum fur Fotografie in Berlin, Germany but if you can't make it to that then don't worry, the catalogue is on sale now, just in time for Christmas. Perhaps the most intriguing thing when leafing through the beautifully reproduced pages is the feeling that you are somehow privy to a little behind-the-scenes peek into Newton's shoots themselves. A must have for all Newton fans. Now, the good news is that we have ONE copy of this amazing catalogue to give away to Black readers and fans. We'll be giving it away over on our Facebook page and Taschen will mail it to the winner, no matter where they live in the world.

Helmut Newton Polaroids Exhibition
June 10, 2011 - May 20, 2012
Die Helmut Newton Stiftung im Museum für Fotografie, Jebensstrasse 2, 10623 Berlin, Germany

Left: Thierry Mugler, Monte Carlo 1998
Right: Cigar Industry, Milan, 1997

Left: Paris Match, Monte Carlo, 1985
Right: Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, 1991

The World Is YOURS Andy Henry!

2011-12-04T12:24:00.001+13:00

THE WORLD IS YOURS - PART THREE from yours on Vimeo.

Here at Black we're big fans of Andrew Henry's YOURS label. His first collection of cutting edge footwear was released a while back to much-desired drooling or a quick throwing down of the credit card by a broad selection of sneaker freakers. The good news is that his second collection was launched recently at ONE Limited and Henry has made strides (or should that be stripes?) in every part of the design and construction process. Check out this snazzy clip made on an utterly suitable two-wheeled form of transport somewhere near the aforementioned store. Nice work Andy!

Black #15: Preview

2011-12-03T22:31:00.001+13:00

We are printing early next week so let's publish a few images from Black #15. No rhyme or reason as to these choices. Random is the word. To our deeply valued contributors - we love and adore...

Photo: Christopher Morris Fashion editor: David Bonney
Hair Gavin Anesbury Make-up: Nicole Thompson
Model: Jemma Baines. Jemma wears: shirt by Sara Phillips,
bra by Ellery, gloves by Prada, bag by Rachel Ruddick..

Photo: Chadwick Tyler Fashion: Michelle Cameron
Hair: Shin Arima Make-up: Valery Gherman
Model: Gertrud Hegelund
Gertrud wears: Alexander Wang

Photo: Greg Novak Fashion editor; Rachael Churchward
Make-up by Amber D. Hair by Jason Chong-Li
Model: Ella at Clyne

Photo: Karen Inderbitzen-Waller
Fashion editors: Rachael Churchward and Karen Inderbitzen-Waller
Hair: Shontal Healy Make-up Shirley Simpson
Model: Dasha at Vanity Walk
Dasha wears: Swimsuit and rope harness from Kate Sylvester archive,
skirt by Helen Cherry,leather glove by Taylor,
sunglasses by Henry Holland for Le Specs,
sock garters worn on arms by Julia De Ville

Photo: Michael Schwartz
Fashion editor: Andrew Holden
Hair: Roberto Di Cuia
Make-up: Carolina Dali
Model; Maja at Women NY

Photo: Paul Empson
Fashion editors: Rosanna Passaluca
Hair: Tobias Sanger
Make-up: Tina Rovanien
Model; Tanya D at Marilyn Paris
Tanya D wears: Top and skirt by Miu Miu

Photo: Russ Flatt
Fashion editor: Rachael Churchward
Hair: Kevin Murphy
Make-up: Shirley Simpson
Model; Rosie at Nova

Workshop Reopens in Christchurch

2011-12-01T09:32:00.001+13:00

How good it is to see the City of Christchurch renewing, reemerging and regenerating after the Year From Hell. Great to also see the fashion community bouncing back by reopening stores, albeit often in different locations. Nom*D recently reopened in Merrivale and tomorrow Workshop, who have been trading in the city for more than 25 years, reopen in Cashel Mall. The new store is touted as "the complete Workshop experience" showcasing Helen Cherry, Workshop Denim Summer 11 collection (above), exclusive international designer brands and a mix of art, furniture and decorative objects - something Workshop's Chris Cherry has long been passionate about. Proud to be a part of Christchurch's Re:Start project, the company is celebrating the reopening with a limited edition t-shirt from long time artistic partner Martin Popplewell. The message will undoubtedly ring strong and true with locals and many others around the country: "Good To Be Back." Good to see you back Workshop!

Whitecliffes Fashion Show 2011

2011-11-30T12:07:00.001+13:00

Rhianon leading out Jessica Grubisa

Saturday night saw the annual Whitecliffes fashion show held at the sheds on the soon-to-be-constructed Rhubarb Lane site on Wellesley Street. Second, third and graduating fourth-year students pulled together their ranges, their models, their sponsorship partners and as many cheering and clapping friends and family in the audience as they could. Jessica Grubisa, Yun Do, Madeleine Harman, Stephanie Au Duong and Creina Brunton stood out for us in the fourth-year graduating group - a very strong year for Whitecliffes fashion designers - whilst Trish Peng and Kido Den impressed us from years two and three. Showroom 22's Murray Bevan also impressed and should he ever consider moving on from fashion PR has a big future behind a mic somewhere! All images by Yasmine Ganley.

Madeleine Harman

Creina Brunton

Dasha in Trish Peng

Stephanie Au Duong

Jessica Grubisa

Stephanie Au Duong

Creina Brunton

Madeleine Harman

Wunderkammer Garage Sale, this Saturday!

2011-11-29T20:54:00.001+13:00

We always love a Wunderkammer garage sale and this Saturday, from 10am at Wunderkammer Showroom, 62 Ponsonsby Road, Ponsonby, it's all on. Half price, or less, off everything on sale, including Wunderkammer Jewellery. This sale will likely be very busy so get in early to the Cabinet of Curiosities...

BLK #15: On set: Karen Inderbitzen-Waller and Rachael Churchward shoot Dasha at Vanity Walk

2011-11-22T15:58:00.001+13:00

OK, last shoot for BLK #15 done and dusted. Photographer (and stylist) Karen Inderbitzen-Waller teamed with Black fashion director Rachael Churchward for a shoot that was spawned in the restricted secretary persona seen in the recent Kate Sylvester show but which then grew organically in several directions. In particular, the editorial explores some of the late 90's styling that Rachael championed for publications like Pavement and revisits the partnership that Rachael and Karen had in those days as a styling team. The shoot reminded us all how good that partnership is. Model Dasha (at Vanity Walk) proved that she has quite a future ahead with an assured performance for a relatively new model, whilst the creative lighting and digital direction by Delphine Avril Planqueel was, as usual, ahead of the pack. Great hair by Shontal Healey at Stephen Marr using Kevin.Murphy and make-up by Shirley Simpson using M.A.C Cosmetics.

Designer David Trubridge leaves 'traces' on Hemptech fabric

2011-11-20T14:51:00.001+13:00

Trubridge design - 3d and 3d

Innovative New Zealand textile company Hemptech began their business in the 1990s when hemp was revived as a credible textile - it was systematically destroyed by Du Pont and Willam Randolph Hearst in the 1930s as it represented a challenge to their own textiles and income - but as a textile option in the nineties it was quickly seen as the domain of hippies, potheads and people with very bad design sense. To Hemptech's credit, they realised that hemp was in fact a superior product but that as a fabric or covering no matter how good the product, the stigma remained. Success lay in the design, the art and the quality of the product would carry itself. Today Hemptech has gone way beyond the stereotype of cannabis leaf logos on sacky-looking bags to team with one of Aotearoa's leading designers, David Trubridge.

Followers of New Zealand design will be familiar with Trubridge's sculptural pieces that are as much art as function and his innate sense of the natural shapes and form that are abundant in the New Zealand landscape. This week the first a new collection of fabric designs between Trubridge and the textile leader was launched at Parnell's Essenze gallery. Entitled "Rings" Trubridge spoke of the influence of nature, "the crackled surface of melt pools on an Antarctic glacier; intricate layers of siltstone on the Otago coastline; shoot-green bursts of life after a deluge in the Outback" as images he held close in the design process. The collection will be available in New Zealand and Australia in six colourways and two fabric weights.

Thom Kerr and Anthony Lister: Colab

2011-11-17T19:39:00.001+13:00

"Colab is not just eyewear, it's art on your face" - so says the opening gambit of the snazzy Australian company's website. When Sydney-based Black photographer Thom Kerr collaborated with rad Aussie artist Anthony Lister and a range of Colab glasses, the result was nothing short of stunning. Thom's team of stylist Cassandra Scott-Finn, beauty genius Sinden Dean, producer Jovita Lee and assistant Sian Scott-Cash helped create this utterly vivid rendition of a special place where eyewear meets photography, fashion and art. Love it to pieces!

Sparkling Underneath - Pleasure State's Crown Jewel

2011-11-16T11:04:00.001+13:00

The list of collaborations and creative partnerships with iconic crystal brand Swarovski is extensive but this limited edition Pleasure State couture Crown Jewel lingerie set really does seem like the perfect match. Only 500 Crown Jewel lingerie sets in exquisite jet black satin, Japanese leavers lace and embellished with Swarovski crystals will be available worldwide this Christmas and, in Australasia, will only be available from Myer Department stores in Australia. Having said that, at an RRP of $300 for the push-up Balconnet bra and $150 for the accompanying thong, it might encourage a few lingerie-loving Kiwis to make the trip over the ditch. Sexy and sparkly...

Chucks, whiter than white!

2011-11-15T13:23:00.001+13:00

After spending some time recently trying to wash and whiten our much loved collection of white canvas Chuck Taylors to find that a number of stains or marks remained it was pleasing to receive this wee film from our friends at Process PR this morning. Baking soda seems so obvious and was probably a staple Chuck-cleaning technique of the 50's housewife or the Mom from Leave It To Beaver but we quite simply, hadn't thought of it. Thanks Converse and Process, shiny white Chucks here we come!

Black #15 on set in the bush with David Shields

2011-11-14T17:36:00.001+13:00

Kelvin at Clyne in Jess Grubisa

For once, it was not raining as we shot fashion editorial for an issue of Black Magazine with David K Shields. In fact, the sun even broke through a couple of times as fashion director Rachael Churchward and assistant fashion editor Jessica Grubisa styled up an eclectic mix of local and international labels. Greg Murrell, assisted by Lydia Mahon styled the hair in a Ryder Salon style using KMS California and Stacy Lee Ghin did the make-up with a little help from son, Freddie. The models were Kelvin, Seon and Evgeny at Clyne and Andrej at Red 11. Te Rahwitiroa assisted Mr Shields.

Rachael Churchward tidying up the Adi...Das and Workshop camo

Andrej at Red 11 in Zambesi and Ksubi

Andrej in Jimmy D and Jess Grubisa with Greg Murrell

Te Rawhitiroa, Jess Grubisa and Evgeny in Jimmy D, WESC and Nina van Lier

Seon at Clyne in Twenty7Names and Alexandra Owen
with Karen Walker rings

Freddie with his Green Fern Man eyebrows

Black #15 On set with Russ Flatt and Kevin.Murphy

2011-11-12T21:43:00.001+13:00

Today we completed our third to last shoot for Black #15 with photographer Russ Flatt and hair maestro Kevin Murphy. Kevin delivered six fabulous hair looks with models Rosie at Nova, Imogen and Bec at Red 11, make-up by Shirley Simpson with hair assistance by Shontal Healey at Stephen Marr. Fashion editor was Rachael Churchward. Here is the last look of the day, full colour Bec....

Black #15 On Set With Marissa Findlay by Yasmine Ganley

2011-11-09T11:55:00.000+13:00

Last Sunday, as is becoming normal for a Black editorial shoot, our Black team battled the elements of wind, rain and a surprising cold for this time of the year, for Marissa Findlay's editorial shoot for Black #15. Skateboarding model, Daniela K from Czech Republic was a real trooper and gave us the strength and charisma needed for this shoot.

Fashion Director Rachael Churchward was able to explore one of her favorite looks, a combination of black, leather and bondage. Make Up by Amber D at Mac Cosmetics, Hair by Jason Chong-Li from Stephen Marr. Assistance from Michelle and Phoebe.

Photos taken by Yasmine Ganley

Black #15 New York cover girl: Gertrud Hegelund

2011-11-08T21:13:00.003+13:00

We are excited to announce our New York cover girl for issue #15 of Black, Gertrud Hegelund. The Danish beauty, fresh from a stellar season on the catwalk, gave her all for photographer Chadwick Tyler, fashion editor Michelle Cameron and Black New York editor Valery Gherman on make-up and Shin Arima on hair. Gertrud recently appeared in the amazing Louis Vuitton campaign (above) shot by Steven Meisel. With our shooting schedule nearly complete, we are fully immersed in deadline and loving it - as usual! See you on the other side...

Inside Auckland's Coucou Boutique

2011-11-03T14:23:00.000+13:00

Coucou is a new boutique located next to the lovely MADE in Aucklands Britomart Precinct. Coucou is an eclectic mix of beautiful vintage pieces and pretty things from all around the world. Brought to you by the same people behind MADE who’ve travelled far and wide to hand pick the best vintage and one off pieces they can find.

Alongside the vintage are some new pieces from European labels such as Asos, Topshop and Zara all in all creating a colourful collection of treats with something to suit everyone and price points mostly under $100.00! Can't beat that!

Behind the scenes of a beauty shoot by 9-year-old Tyla Novak

2011-11-02T11:20:00.001+13:00

We were shooting beauty for Black #15 this week with photographer Greg Novak when his 9-year-old daughter Tyla, a budding photographer herself, took these great pictures. M.A.C's Amber D came up with a fun, pop concept, Jason Chong-Li of Stephen Marr whizzed up the hair and Rachael Churchward styled the models Kendall and Ella, both at Clyne. There is something unique about the angles and aspect of these images, nice work Tyla!

Shen: Mary-Ellen's perfect circle

2011-11-02T08:45:00.000+13:00

Life for Mary-Ellen Prendergast has been something of a circuitous route which is, perhaps, exactly why she has called her new label Shen. A graduate of Wellington Polytech's fashion school, she cut her teeth with legendaryAuckland designer Patrick Steele before spending two years working at Savage London and Top Shop stockist Poetic Gem in the UK. Upon returning to Auckland Mary-Ellen spent a decade at High Society as designer for the label Obi where she learnt enough to feel confident about starting her own label.

In ancient Egyptian, Shen means encircle and in hieroglyphics a shen ring represented eternal protection whilst in modern Chinese Mandarin, its meanings include awareness and consciousness. Looking at her first Shen collection "Forever Lasting" it is clear that Prendergast was both 'aware' and 'conscious' when she went about designing the collection as it is an accomplished first effort influenced by her adventures and love of all things Asian. More poignantly, her successful battle with life-threatening breast cancer less than a decade ago ensures she knows better than most the meaning of 'eternal protection'. "Without such a life-changing experience I may not have had the drive to start my own label," she says. "I'd like Shen to embody the personal values I bring to my design and reflect the qualities and aspirations of the women who buy Shen." With this first collection, she has achieved that. Photos: Stephen Tilley, styling Ana McDonald.

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL # 18: Charlotte Carey by Gianluca Santoro

2011-10-28T21:34:00.000+13:00

We love the thinking behind this shoot by Gianluca Santoro at Work Agency NY; one girl, simple use of backgrounds, different looks, great portraiture. We also love the story-telling hair by globetrotting New Zealander Richard Kavanagh and the yes-I'm-here presence of model Charlotte Carey at IMG New York. Make-up by Virginia Linzee at Cloutier Remix NY, assistant: Tejan. Shot on location in Soho, New York which feels quite apt given the bottle of Soho Pinot Noir we are enjoying right now.

Chadwick Tyler to shoot Black #15 New York cover

2011-10-28T14:54:00.000+13:00

Karolina Kurkova for Grey Magazine

To say we are excited about having Chadwick Tyler shoot our New York cover for issue #15 is an understatement. Chadwick approached us to shoot for an early issue of Black but we had already closed the issue off and were unable to accomodate him. In the years since he has delivered some of the most amazing fashion work around with his unique style and we have watched him grow, wishing we had said yes and created the extra pages. Fans of the great Italian magazine, Grey, will know his work in a flash. The shoot is taking place this week with an amazing girl - will confirm who this week. Fashion editor for her third cover in a row will be Michelle Cameron and hair and make-up, as always, by our treasured New York editor, Valery Gherman.

For French Revue des Modes

Constance Jablonski for Grey Magazine

It's a Man's World, or a Woman's, or a Girls...

2011-10-27T22:17:00.001+13:00

The Friday before the All Blacks won the Rugby World Cup photographer Stephen Tilley got amongst it in urban Auckland to shoot Lili Sumner at Red 11 (below) and Rosie at Nova (above) for Black #15. Fashion editor Rachael Churchward celebrated girls-who-were-boys-who-were-girls and the sun shone brightly on all concerned. Hair by Greg Murrell at Ryder using KMS California, make-up by Kimberly Hill at M.A.C, assistant fashion editor: Jessica Grubisa.

Kevin Murphy On His Way To Shoot For Black #15

2011-10-27T14:37:00.000+13:00

Kevin Murphy, photographed by Yasmine Ganley.

We are extremely excited to share news that global hair genius, Kevin Murphy, will be joining our New Zealand team to shoot with LA based photographer and long time friend Robert Erdmann this November for Black #15. The pair have worked together numerous times on various global campaigns, so we are honoured to bring the pair back together again! Recently, when Kevin stopped into The Department Store in Takapuna, Auckland, we met with him to try out and hear about his latest Color Bug products.

In Kevin Murphy's own words he tells us how to apply, wear and care for your Hair Resort Spray and Color Bug products.

Hair Resort Spray

"You want to start by putting the hair resort spray into damp hair and dry that in. You can then put a bit of motion lotion over the top. make sure the hair is dry, put in about 6 wave clips in horizontally, two in the front, two in the side and two down the back, squirt a bit of hair resort spray onto the clips, dry them off with a dryer, let the hair cool down, take the wave clips out, a little bit more of a hair resort spray spritz over the top. finger it out with your fingers and then your done!"

Color Bug

"One of the most important things with the Color Bug is you want to treat it like make-up, so you put your 'foundation' on first, which would be your styling product, and then make the powder of the Color Bug stick to the styling product by rubbing it onto the hair."

Express Yourself!

2011-10-27T13:35:00.000+13:00

This year's winner: Twenty-Seven Names

As New Zealand’s fashion industry develops, the very notion of exporting becomes increasingly important, especially for emerging or developing designers. DHL, the world’s leading express and logistics company know this only too well, initiating the DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship in 2008 to help said designers with this critical part of their development. The prize: NZ $10,000 worth of international freight, plus coaching in the business of freight and logistics, mentorship and membership of FINZ is this year supplemented by an Australia-focused NZTE Path to Market programme. That the scholarship works is in no doubt whatsoever as the three winners to date; Stolen Girlfriends Club, Lonely Hearts and Twenty-Seven Names have made substantial strides in overseas markets since their respective wins. This year’s judges are NOM*D’s Margarita Robinson, Kim Crawford wines founder, Erica Crawford, Mapihi Opai from FINZ and DHL Express national strategic account manager Megan Wildermoth.

So, emerging designers of New Zealand, get your skates on and enter this landmark comp. Entries close on Monday, November 14, 2011. Application forms are available from the FINZ website.

What's Undone in Dunedin?

2011-10-27T13:24:00.001+13:00

It might be a little patronising to call Dunedin a fashion incubator but in recent years the city has continued to punch above its weight as a hub of forward-thinking and unique design. The influences, from Margi Robinson’s dark, deconstructed vision to the grumbling weather and the burgeoning growth of I.D fashion week position the city as a wee Antwerp of the south. All of this confluence is beginning to bear fruit and in recent years a number of new labels have emerged that carry a distinctive Dunedin flavour, yet are equally reflective of other places. Undone by Elise Barnes and Rachel Webb is one of these. The pair met in 2008 at Otago Polytechnic where both were studying fashion and then cemented their partnership at this year’s I.D show, in which both were asked to participate.

Thus, Undone, a label they describe as “a collaboration based upon the attraction of opposites in design.” Elise is described as ‘feminine and a hopeless romantic” and Rachel, “mysterious with an androgynous sense of style.” In a nutshell, their individual ideas, style and thinking must be “undone” and then reworked to make their joint creations. The pair have released two collections: Bespoke and A Dream within a Dream both of which can be viewed online here.

Black #15 On Set: Hope (Go The Kids) by Russ Flatt

2011-10-20T20:51:00.003+13:00

Nina, wearing Karen Walker eyewear.
Photos: Yasmine Ganley

Over the past few weeks we've said "Go" a lot. "Go the Warriors!" "Go the All Blacks." Last Sunday, shooting for Black #15 with photographer Russ Flatt it was, "Go The Kids!" Truly, these children, the offspring of friends and whanau, give us hope for a new generation. Fashion director Rachael Churchward teamed with assistant fashion editor Jessica Grubisa, hair editor Greg Murrell and assistant Lydia Mahon from Ryder Salon and make-up artist Shirley Simpson to style and shoot sisters Nina and Heidi, Aniwa, Jenna, Ariel, Boston, Isaac and twins Dylan and Nina for the next issue. Black online editor/photographer Yasmine Ganley captured some sweet behind-the-scenes moments from the day. We'll say it again, "Go The Kids!"

Aniwa flying Ariel's flag

Boston, checking to make sure he is
getting enough Kevin.Murphy color bug

Ariel loves Warpaint

Heidi and her Gibson axe

Russ on the level with Aniwa

Shirley MACin' Ariel

Setting Nina

Nina wearing vintage hat from
Wunderkammer and Kate Sylvester

Photo Essay: All is not OK, in the Bay by Greg Novak

2011-10-19T16:52:00.002+13:00

All photos by Greg Novak

As the Rena environmental disaster unfolded in the Bay of Plenty toward the end of last week, Black photographer Greg Novak, a keen environmentalist, decided he would take a trip to the sandy foreshore of Tauranga and Mt Maunganui to see if he could help the clean up and take a few pictures of the process while he was there.

We asked Greg for a few words about his soujourn:

"On day four of this disaster Papamoa looked like a war zone. While the media in general focus on who is to blame, and who will foot the bill I was more interested in the human face of this environmental disaster.

"The local community were organized, often self resourced and most importantly willing to deal with the hand they had been dealt and clean up the coast. However Maritime NZ's closure of the beaches made it increasingly difficult for community groups to participate in the clean up. Local iwi were certainly extremely prominent in this drive to get in there and clean up the coast. This was a community that treasure their environment and was an immense resource that perhaps should have been better utilized.

"In the more remote areas away from the media attention locals were receiving no resources or assistance from Maritime New Zealand but had come up with their own solutions and the clean up was well under way. In my mind these solutions using Sphagnum moss and paper pulp were a lot more sensible than a lot of the actual sanctioned clean up methods offered by Maritime NZ and really highlight the number eight fence wire attitude that New Zealanders have in the face of a disaster. More importantly there was action straight away which was both considered and organized and intelligent.
Below is a condensed version of a greenpeace blog, but nonetheless, in my opinion, the most important point, as a way of life that has been going on mainly undisrupted for many generations is now potentially at an end."

"On Motiti Island, the area closest to where the Rena grounded, a local community of 30 were perhaps the hardest hit. The livelihoods of those living there has been ripped apart with the toxic contamination of the marine food chain on which they rely. Those living on Motiti are largely self-sufficient, growing food and harvesting from the sea, the sea is their livelihood, they have no supermarket. The seafood has sustained these people and their descendants for up to a thousand years, it really is all they have."

The saga continues with the imminent break-up of the boat looming as a serious threat to the wildlife of the bay - even the Takapu on White Island may be affected - and the lifestyle and livelihood of the region's people. Our thoughts are with all concerned.

Julianna Sseruwagi-Nisbett Interview

2011-10-14T17:09:00.002+13:00

With a nostalgic look at her years growing up in the 90s, artist Julianna Sseruwagi-Nisbett re-creates beautiful images of her teen years through an obsession with the brand Moschino. Fitting carefully collected, vintage Moschino pieces onto iconic people that she feels portray the essence of her own youth, Julianna Sseruwagi-Nisbett applies a concept strong enough to take her out of a ‘styling’ gig and be put in amongst the worlds leading artists. I talked exclusively with Julianna about her journey back to her past, her upcoming projects and her love and loyalty towards the brand, Moschino.

-Tell us about your choice to use your styling abilities in a more arts focused environment rather than taking work in fashion magazines.

There are so many reasons why people wear clothes and particular styles, other than to follow trends. I felt it would be interesting to explore that aspect, rather than just focusing on the aesthetic as most fashion shoots do.

-Why Moschino?

Moschino was huge in a significant period of my life. For me it is synonymous with nineties in London; jungle and garage raves, my first love, escapades in my first car all happened within this period. Of course there were other popular brands too, but pre 1995 Moschino still appeals to me and others now. There is something enduring about the aesthetic. This could be because Franco Moschino had an arts focused approach to his work; there was always a thought process behind his pieces whether he was promoting safe sex, or mocking the fashion industry .

-I love the idea of re capturing your youth and exploring your personal identification with a brand at that age within a new, modern image, re modelled on someone else. can you tell us about the process for this idea. Some of the memories? Do you think this idea will ever evolve around any other aspects that were as significant in your life growing up?

Thanks! I had been collected vintage Moschino pieces in charity shops for some time, and the items seemed to signify the nostalgia I was already feeling about that part of my life. The idea was to capture people in their natural environments wearing one piece of Moschino that fitted in comfortably with their style. This was important for me as I wanted to reflect how Moschino could and was still being worn today by a variety of people. Working class kids (like myself) wore patterned Moschino when we were younger, middle class kids wear them now for entirely different reasons. This hasn’t just happened with fashion, I have seen a lot of things that were in my inner city environment when I was younger, such as slang words, music and even locations, being used again now by middle class kids in a different context. I find this really interesting.

-Why did you choose to use well known/iconic people as your models in your work?

Having worked in music I knew many bands, artist, DJ’s etc, so using them represents who I was/am as much as friends or boyfriends. It is easy to go from Monday to Tuesday without really thinking about what connects the days together, and by using a variety of people I was able to in some way see the changes I had gone through in my life. Dominic Jones used to live in the infamous Toilet Factory (a squat in Peckham), with a band I used to manage called Ratty Rat Rat, and I grew up with Shaun Wright Phillips in Brockley. Both represent very different periods in my life, but I like the idea that actually they
sit quite comfortably together.

Read the full interview at anyonegirl.com

Lady Gaga, Nicola Formichetti and Ruth Hogben film for Viva Glam

2011-10-14T16:47:00.002+13:00

Lady Gaga has helped raise over $55 million in two years for M.A.C's amazing Viva Glam campaign that raises awareness of HIV/AIDS worldwide. The total now stands at $224 million and this Ruth Hogben film, a massive collaborative effort with Nicola Formichetti and fans around the world will surely help raise more. Fabulous M.A.C!

Black #15: Arthur Belebeau and Vittoria Cerciello shoot Michelle Buswell

2011-10-13T12:41:00.003+13:00

Model.com's 25 money girl ranking is the list of the biggest earning models currently working and we're proud to say that we've had two Black cover girls - Valentina Zelyaeva and Rosie Huntington-Whitely - who are currently ensconced on that list. With the publication of Black #15 a third "money girl" will grace our pages. Michelle Buswell has walked for LouisVuitton, Chanel, Gucci, YSL, Valentino, Fendi and Stella McCartney to name but a few. She's shot with almost every major magazine and a who's who of photographers. Her numerous campaigns include Chanel, Dior, Prada, Oscar de la Renta, Versace and many more. She's been a Victoria's Secret angel, appeared in the 2005 Pirelli calendar and is the famous face of the Classique fragrance campaign by Jean Paul Gaultier.

Photo: Randall Slavin for Lovecat Magazine

For issue #15 of Black, New York-based photographer Arthur Belebeau returns, in partnership with Flair Magazine fashion editor Vittoria Cerciello, hair maestro Leon Gorman and Black's Valery Gherman to deliver a sumptuous editorial featuring Michelle gambling with the perception that her cutting-edge days are behind her. Vittoria has delivered phenomenal work at Flair for some time now only occasionally deviating to work with the likes of Ponytail, Leon's name will be familiar to many in the hair trade and New York editor Valery Gherman has stepped up to the next level with his make-up artistry.

Tank cover by Olivier Zahm

Kate Sylvester "The Secretary" AW 2012

2011-10-07T07:57:00.001+13:00

Kate Sylvester has always been sexy but “The Secretary”, her Autumn/Winter 2012 collection unveiled at Auckland’s new Art Gallery on Tuesday took things to a new level. Unashamedly drawing inspiration from Steven Shainberg’s 2002 feature The Secretary, Sylvester delivered a range that explored the playground between sexual dominance and submission, replete with bound and tied models, pretty-brainy styling by Karen Inderbitzen-Waller and a broad colour palette from muted to vibrant red. The Secretary was classic Sylvester in every sense, pretty yet powerful women looking, acting and feeling bottom-smackingly sexy. Adore...

Uncommon Eyes

2011-10-05T19:44:00.001+13:00

Aidan Bartlett, drummer for Midnight Youth may (or may not) get his hair done by Stephen Marr's Donielle Booth but together they are Eyes Of Common, a jewellery label taken from a line in a Joanna Newsom song. Poor Number 10, a salute to love lost and love found...

New Face: Tyller McCullough at KHM Models by David K Shields

2011-10-02T13:54:00.000+13:00

The development board at KHM Models is getting stronger by the day and fresh face Tyller McCullough is clear cut testament to the potential within the fledgling agency. Photographer David K Shields captures her Celtic beauty with styling by Rachael Churchward. Hair and make-up by Derek Aaron Young.

Wunderkammer for Workshop AW 2012 collection

2011-10-02T13:15:00.000+13:00

Wunderkammer Jewellery's Zora Boyd is naturally prolific but lately even more so. She has collaborated with Beau Coops' Carrie Cooper on a special limited edition shoe and with Workshop's Chris Cherry to create this killer collection of rings featuring the work of artists Martin Popplewell, Te Rangitu Netana and Stephen Green as well as continuing to produce a vast array of rings, pendants, lockets and the like for her own range. Workshop has long been into artistic collaborations too so this three-way if you like is quite special. The rings are available in store now at all Workshop outlets but be quick, they are limited edition and may not last for long. Photos by Daniel Max.

New faces: Girls at Portfolio Models in Christchurch by David K Shields

2011-10-02T12:39:00.001+13:00

Sarah

In the second post featuring models at Christchurch agency, Portfolio Models, David K Shields captures the southern beauty of Michaela Steenkamp, Sarah Eastmond and Laura Pitcher. Michaela's pictures were taken prior to Black Magazine cutting her hair for an editorial in Black #15, but she looks stunning as usual. Sarah is a classic Canterbury beauty that has everything Kylie Bax had, and more, and Laura is a fabulous redhead from a city that boasts more redheads than most. Styling, hair and make-up by Dean Rushworth.

Michaela

Laura

We're being Teesed this week!

2011-09-29T18:47:00.001+13:00

Everyone loves a good T-shirt. Like jeans, sunnies and sneakers they are a staple of our wardrobes unless of course you are a politician or Karl Lagerfeld. This week we received a few emails from folk who are producing lines of t-shirts for various reasons and thought we'd post our three favourites here:
This week Glassons continued their completely admirable support of the Breast Cancer Research Trust by launching the Cure Shop - the world's first store dedicated to finding a cure for breast cancer. Gotta love that and buying this classic Karen Walker t-shirt (above) is a perfect way to say you do.

Yesterday, Black editor Grant Fell was interviewed by Jennifer Weather-Centre for an upcoming bNet radio documentary series that celebrates the 30-year mark for New Zealand's greatest label, Flying Nun. Since founder Roger Shepherd regathered the reins there has been a quiet excitement building in local and international indie circles. A feature of the iconic-with-a-capital-I imprint has always been the arty covers and none is more iconic than this little beauty from The Clean's seminal Boodle Boodle Boodle ep. Barkers have been into this collaboration for a year or so now and good on them for realising the importance of the label. The 'Boodle' shirt (above) from the second range is on sale now at all Barkers stores.

Finally, as huge fans of the Warriors (yes, we are and always have been) we simply cannot wait for the NRL final this weekend. New T-shirt girls about town Anoinette Tahere and Jane Robinson (Bagabond) know the size of this love affair only too well - and as good Point Chev girls - have produced two shirts to capture the mood of the nation at the moment. This grouse Warriors option and the just-as-direct All Black option "This is an all black shirt." These are available from Bagabond directly and are selling like a hot Shaun Johnson run to the line, feigning, passing and scoring! GO THE WARRIORS!

Black #15: Paul Empson and Sam Ranger shoot Anna de Rijk in London

2011-09-27T19:35:00.000+13:00

Anna de Rijk, Vogue Nippon by Inez and Vinoodh

The shoots continue to roll in for issue #15 of Black Magazine. Last week our Paris photographer Paul Empson jumped on the train to shoot in London with stylist Sam Ranger who took the latest Louis Vuitton range and styled up a storm on Anna de Rijk for one of our covers and an editorial. Dutch beauty Anna has long been one of the girls listed on Models.com's Top 50 that we're most interested in, love her, so strong...

Image: displacedbones.blogspot.com

Black #15: On set - David K Shields shoots Michaela at Portfolio/Red 11

2011-09-26T17:59:00.001+13:00

It always seems to rain, actually, it always seems to pour when photographer David K Shields and Black fashion director Rachael Churchward team up to shoot fashion for Black Magazine. Yesterday was no different when we travelled to Piha and Kare Kare on Auckland's West Coast to shoot Michaela from Portfolio/Red 11 in a pretty, free-flowing editorial co-styled by Jessica Grubisa with hair and make-up by Nicky Paton at Angels Nest using KMS and Living Nature. To provide a point of difference and to suit the styling concept Nicky cut Michaela's hair short for the editorial.

Michaela will be familiar to fans of last season's NZ's Next Top Model as runner-up to eventual winner Danielle Hayes. Of South African extraction, Christchurch girl Michaela is a natural talent blessed with all of the important model attributes; a great face, a body to match, a strong work ethic and excellent attitude. Whilst it is no secret that appearing on NZNTM is certainly no guarantee of a successful modelling career to follow, Michaela's (and Danielle's) very appearance in magazines like Black are proof positive that NZNTM isn't harmful either - as long as a model has the goods in the first place and the right attitude and desire to work.

Lui Hon: Whispering Roots AW 2012

2011-09-21T18:53:00.001+12:00

We're fast becoming steadfast fans of Melbourne designer Lui Hon. His AW 2012 "Whispering Roots" collection is a yin yang thing of black-and-white beauty nicely encapsulated in these look book images by photographer Peter Ryle. Models Ayor at FHM and Renee at Viviens are perfectly cast, hair & make-up by Blondie at Agent 99 with assistance from Rebecca Savva and Thomas Frimi. Hat's by Richard Nylon for Lui Hon. Shoes by Santini.

Wunderkammer, Costume National, half price? Sounds good!

2011-09-21T16:07:00.000+12:00

Anyone who has walked along Ponsonby Road that possesses even the slightest note of sartorial savvy will know that this is the window of the one-and-only Wunderkammer store. Those same stylish pedestrians would also note they're having a sale of Costume National women's shoes, like those below - all half price! Just thought we'd bring it to your attention....

Backstage Karen Walker Spring 2012, New York Fashion Week

2011-09-20T18:39:00.006+12:00

It warms the cockles of our Black fashion hearts to see New Zealand designer Karen Walker’s continued appearance, season after season, on schedule at Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week. Inspired by Taxi Driver, that most New York of movies, the collection bookends Betsy and Iris from the film as two different types of women that inform the range: “Betsy is feminine, elegant and aloof; Iris is tough and girlish” Walker told Maya Singer on Style.com. Black photographer Adam ‘Instant’ Custins captured some lovely backstage portraits on the day for inclusion in Black #15 but in the meantime here is a backstage teaser to celebrate...

New Faces: Boys at Portfolio Christchurch by David K Shields

2011-09-19T19:06:00.001+12:00

Leo and Lyu Ishizuka

Prolific, itinerant and bearing his own special casting skills David K Shields just loves taking photos of fresh new faces. He recently travelled to the recovering city of Christchurch to shoot some of the fresh new faces at Portfolio Models and as these images attest, the city might be somewhat broken but the kids are still beautiful. First up, the boys, including 16 year-old twins Leo and Lyu (above) and in a post to follow, the girls...

Oli Stone

Rhys Garner

Lyu Ishizuka

Oli Stone

The All Blacks really are Super Heroes

2011-09-19T16:04:00.000+12:00

HBTV: New Zealand All Blacks - all heroes from HBTV on Vimeo.

Pretty much every New Zealand kid knows that but kudos to adidas Originals and the Auckland-based creative team of artist Elliot F. Stewart, Qubic store's Frank Liew and Shaun Wallace of Eyeball Moving Image for turning that thought into a reality, or unreality as the case may be. This short film, directed by Liew and Wallace succinctly details the creative process of the talented artist as he interviews All Black greats Jonah Lomu and Dan Carter alongside rising colossus Sonny Bill Williams and Liam "Tatts my number" Messam about the type of super hero they might become. Stewart's interpretations are as masterful and skillful as great All "Heroes" would expect them and the accompanying limited edition Campus 80's sneaker created by adidas Originals couldn't be more apt, and desirable, than right now in the middle of our Rugby World Cup. Limited numbers of this awesome sneaker (below) available now at Qubic store.

NZFW 2011 - Key M.A.C looks of the week by Rene Vaile

2011-09-08T10:00:00.000+12:00

Zambesi - Key artist: Amber D

As usual M.A.C rocked it across New Zealand Fashion Week with beautiful looks provided by artists like Amber D, Nicole Thompson, Fatima Thomas, Shirley Simpson and more. Here is a selection of our favourite looks shot by Sydney-based NZ photographer Rene Vaile.

Workshop: Fatima Thomas

Trelise Cooper - Amber D

Ruby - Nicole Thompson

Lonely Hearts - Nicole Thompson

Kathryn Wilson - Kiri O'Brien

Jimmy D - Amber D

Ingrid Starnes - Shirley Simpson

Huffer - Nicole Thompson

Helen Cherry - Fatima Thomas

Hailwood - Kristen Stewart

NZFW 2011 backstage photo essay by Greg Novak #3: Workshop and Helen Cherry

2011-09-06T19:08:00.002+12:00

Last Thursday night, Workshop Denim and Helen Cherry showed in the grand old dame of Auckland rooms, the Auckland Town Hall. It was the first fashion week appearance for the iconic New Zealand labels since 2005 and for fans of the labels and newcomers alike it was a welcome return. In keeping with a long tradition of artistic collaboration, Workshop's Chris Cherry took this season's collaboration to a new level. Max Gimblett is himself iconic in the art world and delivered a series of quadrafoils and skull prints that fit perfectly with the new Workshop Wunderkammer Jewellery range launched at the event. Gimblett, in town, and represented by Gow Langsford Gallery, even painted a couple of outfits with his trademark 'swooshes.' The WD range showcased the designer's flair with denim and openly embraced leather. Helen Cherry delighted her legion of fans with a modern take on her traditional thinking that referenced the past, present and future: she quipped on the night that the Helen Cherry girl was "well-bred but had run off with the band circa 1975." London-based stylist Jamie Huckbody added the sort of stylistic panache he has brought to the last few seasons of Workshop and Helen Cherry campaigns, the 40 strong model contingent was sweetly cast by Rachael Churchward, and Scratch 22 cleverly synched the music from several decades and the immediate future. M.A.C's international key artist Fatima Thomas lead a team dedicated to a very strong look and Lauren Gunn headed up the crew from Stephen Marr. These images once again by Greg Novak.

NZFW 2011 backstage photo essay by Greg Novak #2: Stolen Girlfriends Club

2011-09-05T13:07:00.001+12:00

Stolen Girlfriends Club, complete with a cardboard cut-out Luke Harwood, put an element of surprise into everything they did at their show last week. The men's range was launched outside, thankfully the rain held off, whilst all and sundry wondered if they had seen the entire show only to be corralled into the larger shed for the show proper. Scaffold dominated the catwalk and the vibe was suitably electric before the opening scene revisited the famous McQueen backstage silhouette concept in red. The first group of models came out onto the catwalk wearing, well, prom dresses, only to stop and discard them on the catwalk to reveal the real collection beneath. Lots of fun, a heaving room, a little mystery, this is why we love Stolen Girlfriends Club. Styled by a very busy Zara Mirken (three show week) with great hair by Greg Murrell and the Ryder Salon team using KMS California and make-up of course by M.A.C with New York maestro Fatima Thomas at the helm backstage was tight, and right on the night. Photographer Greg Novak beautifully captures the backstage hair and make-up teams in action...

NZFW 2011 backstage photo essay by Greg Novak # 1: Jimmy D

2011-09-03T14:29:00.000+12:00

A closer look at the make-up by Amber D, hair by Liana Coscia and styling by Chris Lorimer for Jimmy D's AW 2012 collection shown this week at New Zealand Fashion Week. Intimate docomentary photography by Greg Novak. Twenty photos...

NZFW 2011 backstage looks by Greg Novak #1: Jimmy D

2011-09-03T14:11:00.001+12:00

Jimmy D returned to NZFW 2011 with a punkish, light and dark ode to witchery that celebrated all that is dark and mystical or the fire in between. "It's a Kind of Magick" signalled a strengthening of the Jimmy D vision, a maturing of the relationship with three-year artistic collaborator Andrew McCloud and simple but strong ideas from long time stylist Chris Lorimer. M.A.C key Amber D demonstrating her ability to put the 'artist' into make-up artist also continues to mature and Liana Coscia headed up the hair team for Fudge with a mix of braided and free-flowing locks. We'll follow this post with a documentary-style photo essay of the crew and models backstage by Greg Novak.

Twenty-Seven Names AW 2012

2011-08-31T14:33:00.001+12:00

Twenty-Seven Names showed this collection at NZFW last night as a gallery style installation - shot beautifully by Guy Coombes and featuring the one and only Ngahuia Williams wearing key pieces from the range and looking and acting very much the wallflower. Designers Rachel Easting and Analji Stewart have synched their art and fashion degree backgrounds and this collection more than ever shows why the duo are creating a cult following around the world for their clever use of prints, colour, cut and detailing. Inspired by 19th Century artist Edouard Manet the collection brings two words to mind; Impressive impressionism!

Black #15: Thom Kerr shoots Codie Young

2011-08-31T08:51:00.001+12:00

Photo: Rue DeMail Paris

While New Zealand Fashion Week fills the fashion horizon here in New Zealand, shoots for Black #15 are continuing around the world. We are very happy to have Sydney-based photographer Thom Kerr shooting one of our favourite Aussie girls Codie Young for this issue. Thom has been working with Black since issue 3 when he flew into Auckland from Brisbane as a fresh-faced teenager and literally walked into the office but this is his first fully-fledged editorial for the magazine. Fashion editor Cassandra Scott-Finn has pulled a fine selection of fashion for the shoot: Louis Vuitton, Prada, Miu Miu, Guder, Ms Couture, Burberry, La Perla, Beau Coops, Gucci, Therese Rawsthorne, DL & Co, Gail Sorronda and many more. H&M by the lovely Jovita Lee. Updates on our New York, London, Los Angeles and Paris shoots over the next few weeks.

Killed By Kisses? Why not...

2011-08-30T21:19:00.000+12:00

There is something of a zeitgeist happening in New Zealand jewellery at the moment. Perhaps New Zelaanders have a latent sparkle that is only now starting to twinkle. Liking this range by Naveya and Sloane. Working with diamonds, fresh water pearls, amethyst, sterling silver and white gold in her August 2011 collection, designer Rachel Sloane is Lost In Love and Killed By Kisses. Her creations clearly reflect that state of mind...

Hello! New Zealand Fashion Week...

2011-08-30T20:38:00.002+12:00

We're not really into apologising for not posting but umm...we are. In the past two weeks, we've moved home and office, redefined Black Magazine for the future and been head over Alexander Wang heels immersed in the Workshop and Helen Cherry show we are producing, casting, and enjoying so much. This Thursday at the Auckland Town Hall, as part of New Zealand Fashion Week, iconic New Zealand artist Max Gimblett will add an artistic swish to the Workshop Denim range, stylist Jamie Huckbody will add his unique flair, Scratch 22 will deliver the sounds and a big team will make it all happen. We're plain excited. So, to celebrate, here is the communication from valued Workshop and Helen Cherry partner, BMW New Zealand. At the end of the week, we'll be posting backstage images by photographer Greg Novak.

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL #17: Cora Keegan by Sam Crawford

2011-08-18T12:03:00.000+12:00

One piece swimsuit by Eres, white leather jacket by R13, pink dunks by Nike

New Zealand photographer Sam Crawford has been based in New York for a couple of years now, honing his style and shooting solidly for No Magazine among others. Prior to moving to New York Sam shot a number of portraits for Black Magazine so we're stoked to be able to publish this pop'n'roll shoot for Sam here on Blacklog featuring rising model Cora Keegan at Next NY. Las Vegas native Cora is fairly new but she has already shot for i-D, and Elle US, GAP and Acne campaigns, has a Gemma Wardesque face and killer body to match. Styling by Molly Kennedy, make-up by Misuzu Miyake using M.A.C Cosmetics, hair by Linh Nguyen and photo assist was Benedict N Brink.

Fringe bikini top by Reina, bikini bottoms by Perry Ellis,
wool shorts by Karen Walker, boots from Pearl River, New York

Wetsuit by Cynthia Rowley for Roxy from Saturdays NY

One piece swimsuit by Eres, sunglasses by Tom Ford,
Mainsai rope bracelet from Saturdays NY

Bikini and shorts both by Lover, boots by Ilse Jacobsen

One piece swimsuit by Eres, sleeveless hooded sweat by Le Bac by United Bamboo,
rubber sneakers by Dav.

Black #15: Paul Empson shoots Theres Alexandersonn with Sam Ranger

2011-08-12T12:37:00.000+12:00

A bunch of shoots are happening around the world for Issue #15 of Black Magazine and we're as excited about this one as any of them. Black Paris photographer Paul Empson teamed with the venerable London stylist Sam Ranger to shoot the gorgeous quirkiness of Swedish model Theres Alexandersonn at IMG. Ranger has long been considered one of London's premier stylists; fashion editor at Pop Magazine, stylist for House of Holland and a long list of editorial collaborations with some of the world's greatest fashion photographers sums her resume up in a nutshell. Theres has such an enchanting face yet she knows how to look tough pretty on demand. We like her so much that she is confirmed as our European cover girl for the issue...

Photo: Camilla Akrans for Vogue Japan

Photo: Carl Bengtsson for Elle Sweden

Street Chant 'Stoned Again'

2011-08-10T18:41:00.001+12:00

Loving this tune by Street Chant and the great clip by Andrew Moore and Stuart Page (above). Stoned Again references classic Flying Nun sensibilities in both sound and vision. Street Chant are off on a big national tour soon, be sure to catch them in your town.

Punches 'Give It Up'

2011-08-10T18:10:00.001+12:00

Most days we listen to 95bFm's brilliant Morning Glory radio show, hosted by the velvet-voiced Charlotte Ryan. Magazine radio at it's best. Charlotte offers an open platform for new music so it is often where we hear new local tunes. This week we heard this from Punches - James Duncan (guitar, vocals, bass) and Kelly Sherrod (vocals, guitar). Many a great composer has said that keeping it simple is the key to a great song and Punches pull that punch with Give it Up. Beautiful singing is matched with perfectly weighted, simple, guitar licks within a tune that is unashamedly funereal in pace. Love it...

Westpac Young Fashion Designer Award - Voting now online

2011-08-05T11:29:00.001+12:00

For the second year running Westpac is holding its Young Designer Award in the lead-up to NZFW. This year's entries showcase the considerable talent coming through the ranks with young designers like Jessica Grubisa, Roxanna Zamani and Glen Prentice joined by Ruri Castillo, Georgia Currie, Laura Marshall, Trish Peng & Qiuiae Wong, Lucie Sutichunta, Helen Trethewey and Miriam White. The quality of work across the board is very good indeed, passionate creations from a new generation brimming with ideas. So, don't dilly dally, get in behind your favourite designer by voting for them here on the Westpac Young Designer Facebook page. Simply click through the 'contests' tab to see the entries and you are allowed one vote per day. The designer with most votes wins the more-than-handy $5k prize plus dedicated business banking advice, one of the vital tools for any young designer. We are biased toward Jessica Grubisa (above) as she is of course Black assistant fashion editor but the competition from the likes of Zamani (below) is fierce.

ANEW #4: Matt Nash

2011-08-04T10:26:00.000+12:00

Matt Nash, also an honours graduate of the AUT fashion school, last year investigated the "true Kiwi menswear aesthetic" and challenged our 'perception of how we perceive original menswear in NZ" with his honours range "The Hidden View: The reclaiming of New Zealand Menswear" as seen above. Matt reinvented the work, with the help of photographer Veronica Crockford-Pound, of seminal NZ photographer Glen Busch. More exactly, he carefully reconstructed ten images from Busch's 1981 book Working Men, recreating the 'wear and tear' of the garments and drawing form the inherent style and fashions on view, with detail extending to actually replicating marks on the walls behind the subject with chalk. The models wear masks made by Nash of the original men in each photo - which he recreated the clothing from. Attention to detail and a reverence for the past and its authenticity are clearly attributes of Matt Nash.

For this year's ANEW show, Nash, who also spent time working at Crane Brothers, turned his attention to creating a range of stylish, comfortable bags that tend to "work more with the body - as clothes do, rather than creating bag shaped objects." Nash has made bags for some years but decided it was time to complete a utilitarian, functional range which he thinks is "simple, only using black military style roller buckles and hand-stitched straps, in place of 'blingy' buckles or rivets."

There is considerable attention to detail across the range: "New Zealand leather is used for all the handles, shoulder straps and a triangle corner detailing that I repeat as a motif through the range. For the insides of the bags I have chosen a fine grey and white stripe Japanese poplin shirting, which when put on different angles for the interior pockets makes geometric patterns inside the bag."

Like his honours range of clothing he also references the past, happily:"I am a big fan of an old wives' tale and myth. The myth of gifting a coin in a bag bringing luck and safety to the owner is one that I love. For this reason I have a pre-decimal New Zealand coin sewn into the internal pocket of all my bags."

ANEW, yet old concept....

ANEW #3: Nadeesha Godammune

2011-08-04T09:46:00.000+12:00

The ethos of the ANEW menswear collective leans strongly toward the hand-crafted so it made complete sense to incorporate the stunning fashion illustrations of Nadeesha Godamunne into the project. Having completed her masters in fashion illustration in 2010 with first class honours, Nadeesha is now lecturing at AUT in fashion illustration and forging a freelance career in the venerable art. Her work is informed by historical satirical artists like James Gillray and William Hogarth as well as contemporary illustrators like Julie Verhoeven and Del Kathryn Barton and has appeared in reputable publications such as The Australian Creative, Martin Dawber’s The Great Big Book of Fashion Illustration , Sandra Burke’s new Fashion Designer series and Prodesign.

Nadeesha created these beautiful illustrations for the launch, big water colours that included pieces from the various ranges on offer. Collective member Matt Nash outlines why Nadeesha is a good fit for ANEW: "We really wanted her to be part of the event as we really love her off beat illustration style and thought that her works of the five men would really complement all of our work too."

Like the others involved, Nadeesha is on a constant search to create a new framework for NZ fashion and the creativity that surrounds it: "My illustrations break certain aesthetic boundaries associated with fashion illustration, in an effort to reframe perceptions of ‘ideal’ beauty. Through the reconsideration of line and form I challenge certain visual codes used to talk about fashion."

ANEW line of thought, then....

ANEW #2: Glenn Yungnickel and Sara Andrews

2011-08-03T12:55:00.001+12:00

All photos by Alexis Brooks, styling by Matt Nash

Glenn Yungnickel made a colourful splash last year with a capsule AUT graduate range that was literally, all red. At the ANEW collective launch Glenn showed his latest range, created in collaboration with knitwear designer Sara Andrews. The new collection represents the first complete collection from the Yungnickel stable and this time around Glenn keeps the colour blocking trend going with four tonal colour pallettes that can be mixed easily giving customers the freedom to mix and match the colours for their outfit. The four colour ways are natural, coming from the undyed fabrics themselves, the others are navy, cobalt and mustard.

Glenn's use of colour and dying is certainly a signature: "I really wanted to use cobalt for this range as it is such a strong colour take and resembles traditional workman’s overalls relating back to the initial inspiration. Most of the fabrics were picked out and dyed in each colour letting the fabrics dictate the tone of the colour it would pick up, creating the beautiful tonal variations from one garment to another in the same colour. By using the over-dying this creates a worn pre-loved aesthetic to the fabric of the garment. I like to use this wear-and-tear aesthetic within my own design to express ‘the passing of time’ and ‘the worn garment’ to give the garment a sense of memory."

The range is shirt and pant focused although Glenn already has favourites : "Key pieces of the range would be the completely seam-sealed waterproof raincoat in a traditional raincoat yellow. Another would have to be double pleat cuffed short taking reference from an Oxford bag in cotton. The collarless raglan sleeve shirt is another one of my favourites made in dyed linen shirting. Knitwear was also developed for the range in collaboration with knitwear designer Sara Andrews."

Sara Andrews has a Bachelor of Design and two years experience working for Crane Brothers to help inform her knitwear creations. Her involvement is indicative of the collaborative spirit within the group: " I collaborated with Glenn Yungnickel, and developed a range of knitwear to sit alongside and compliment his work. I have a very organic approach when designing knitwear, and I like to work directly with my fabric so I worked on a hand machine, mixing and blending yarns to create a strong depth of colour and texture."

Glenn and Sara reflect a desire to develop new trends in local menswear, an ambition shared by the entire collective. Says Glenn: "Men are generally reluctant to experiment with clothing that identifies anything other than a masculine perception of themseves. The idea behind the latest collection was to continue challenging the masculine take on colour, which I started to explore in the development of the ‘In the Red’ collection for Fall 2010. To ensure the consumer is not alienated by the experimentation with colour, where they would traditionally be quite conservative, I have used references such as traditional tailoring details to ground the work. I think menswear at the level of the market I am aiming at is underdeveloped in New Zealand due to the casual culture and lifestyle New Zealand men lead."

Refreshing words indeed.

ANEW #1: Rawiri Brown

2011-08-03T11:40:00.000+12:00

Photos: Ngahuia Harrison

A couple of weeks back we attended the ANEW Menswear launch above the Eco Store in Freeman's Bay and we were taken aback by the quality of design, construction, finishing and overall concepts on offer from the designers involved. In the first of a series of posts about the ANEW collective, here are a few images of Rawiri Brown's directional range that was shown with a great, simple concept show. Utilitarian boys walked into the packed room, and one-by-one stood upon small plinths, motionless to classical music, Schubert's Ave Maria from memory. All stood, facing north for a further 3 or 4 minutes whilst Ave Maria played out before returning backstage. Such a simple idea for a show but so very effective. Directional the collection certainly is, so what inspired Rawiri down the clerical path?

"I have been interested over the past years in creating directional menswear which challenges the stereotypical ideal of masculinity. This area of menswear has so much scope and potential for development - examining conventional menswear and ultimately whether certain traditions are still relevant for the future of menswear? For my first capsule collection I looked to clerical vestments and was inspired by the word catechize which means "to give oral teachings of christianity" and the way in which those oral teachings have been subject to change over time, traditions changing for a new tradition." All photos taken on the night by Ngahuia Harrison.

New Face: Anna-May at 62 Models by Greg Novak

2011-08-01T19:26:00.000+12:00

As NZFW approaches the local modelling world traditionally goes into casting overdrive as designers, stylists and agencies negotiate over models of choice. Internationals always have their part to play, we have our own successful faces and new models have the opportunity to make a name for themselves. Here, photographer Greg Novak captures Anna-May, a new face at 62 Models and just one of hundreds of hopefuls for this year's New Zealand Fashion Week. Hair and make-up by the redoubtable Natalie Dent. Anna-May wears Ann Demeulemeester at Wunderkammer and a selection of the model's own clothing.

Black Archive: Karen Walker SS 2003 - NZ Fashion Week

2011-07-29T21:07:00.002+12:00

With New Zealand Fashion Week fast approaching we thought we’d revisit a seminal moment from NZFW’s past. In 2003 we produced two shows; Nom D's "Don't Shoot" and the following night Karen Walker SS 2003. Karen’s show was both a launch of the then brand new Karen Walker Jewellery range and a showing of a classic Karen Walker collection, albeit in midly controversial circumstances. KW creative maestro Mikhail Gherman concepted a simple brief: "Models on a large turntable rather than a catwalk and the jewellery displayed in those fun arcade display cases and a guy in an ape suit." The show, at Parnell’s York Street Studios hit the front page of the NZ Herald the next day; "NZ designer Karen Walker launches jewellery and shows sans catwalk." So here, in low res glory, is the only vid we could find of the show, replete with a fine selection of great NZ models; Amanda, Ngahuia, Louise, Anna, Melissa et al. A few images below...

Black #15: Paul Empson shoots Tanya D in Paris

2011-07-28T12:34:00.000+12:00

Tanya D in VS Magazine

The shooting schedule for Black #15 is under way in Paris, London, New York and Sydney. First up Black Paris photographer Paul Empson shoots a resurgent Tanya Dziahileva or Tanya D for short. After a bit of a break Tanya is blowing up again in Europe so we are excited to have her in this issue. Hair & make-up by Jean Luc Amarin, Tanya was styled by Rosanna Passalacqua wearing Louis Vuitton, Prada, Miu Miu, Celine, Dries van Noten and more...

Tanya backstage at Dior Shanghai Dreams show. Photo: Republic 21

Tanya shot by Hans Feurer for i-D Magazine

Tanya opening for JPG Fall 2011 Couture show

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL #16: Mother & Father PR designers by Thom Kerr

2011-07-22T17:10:00.001+12:00

Roxanna Zamani

After attending the past two Australian Fashion Weeks we have been struck by the groundswell of interesting young Aussie designers who quite simply think outside the sartorial square. Romance Was Born have had a lot to do with the development of a new Down Under fashion ethic where there are no rules, only ideas. One company that has captured this zeitgeist rather well is Sydney-based PR company Mother & Father PR. Helmed by Matt Jordan and Candice Wyman, Mother & Father represent labels like St Augustine Academy, Elliot Ward-Fear, kiwi designer Roxanna Zamani, Perth high flyer Jaime Lee, Ms Couture Lingerie, An Ode To No One and more. Long time Black contributor Thom Kerr beautifully captures some of the company's labels on model Lou Lou from London Management, in glorious balck & white at The Compound, Chippendale. Hair & make-up by Jovita Lee all ably assisted by Tegan Bates. Thom also found time to interview the pair about their shared background in retail, the digital landscape and why swearing is not a problem.

Elliot Ward-Fear

Thom Kerr: Where did the name Mother&Father PR come from?
Candice Wyman: As cornball as it sounds, we wanted a PR agency that was warm and friendly and could treat clients like family. And what’s warmer and friendlier than your parents? Well, mine are anyway...

TK: How did you both first get involved in PR? What was your background?
CW: I used to work full time at Sportsgirl and part of my job was to deal with all of the ACP mag girls who would borrow pieces from the store. Retail sucked arse, and I used to think how much I didn’t want to work on the shop floor, and how cool fashion magazines were. So I enrolled at FBI Fashion College and not long after got work experience at Spin Communications. This was back when the Spin showroom was cool, and we looked after young designers like Romance Was Born – we actually had their very first collection, I remember it was full of like, eyeball dresses and was just so fucking unlike anything else! Anyway worked at Spin for a few years, and then worked at an amazing agency called One Green Bean for awhile, doing PR for a big international denim brand. Spin gave me my love of emerging designers, and One Green Bean gave me the knowledge to deal with big brands.

Ms Couture Lingerie, shoes by
Cassandra Scott-Finn 4 Roxanna Zamani

Matt Jordan: Like Candice I started my career in fashion as a shop girl, after 12months I was asked to move to Melbourne and join the company’s Buying Studio as an Assistant Buyer. There I was taught the science of fashion footwear buying and eventually worked my way into a senior buying position. After leaving that company I worked for a number of other companies as a buyer before joining Dunlop Footwear as the Product Development and Marketing Marketing Manager. I consider the four years I spent at Dunlop as the most enjoyable and rewarding of my life (apart from Mother&Father). We were a small team of misfits and oddballs, none of whom fitted in with or liked the corporate culture of Pacific Brands (Dunlop’s parent company). During my tenure I relaunched the iconic Dunlop Volley – my proudest accomplishment – and oversaw the relaunch of Dunlop Sporting Footwear.
Social media was a key tool in the Volley relaunch and this was back when MySpace was considered the vanguard of social medial....lol...how times have changed. A lot of people including the Advertising and PR agencies we engaged couldn’t see the bigger picture and consequently the vast majority of my annual advertising budgets were spent on above-the-line activity like print and TVC. However I managed to squirrel away a small amount for below-the-line social media campaigns. These campaigns, coupled with a revamped product offering and an aggressive PR campaign became the cornerstone of the Volley relaunch. From this experience I realised that no one was specializing in social/digital media PR and so Mother&Father PR Beta 1.0 was launched.

An Ode To No One, jewellery by Katzi

TK: At what point did you both decide to start Mother & Father PR?

CW: Matt and I were both a bit lost around the time of Fashion Week last year, I’d left One Green Bean and had just coordinated Saint Augustine Academy’s first solo show. Anyway, we went out on the booze one night, and had the brainwave of starting our own agency. I have to credit Matt for making it happen, cos I’d perhaps thought it was just the Gaslight wine talking. But we actually did it!

TK: What is the ethos behind the brands you represent?
CW: All of our brands are independent and they have worked hard to get their label to the position it’s in – even if that position is having one amazing collection and no stockists. They should all be proud of themselves.

Jaime Lee

TK: What separates Mother&Father PR from other PR agencies in Sydney?

CW: We are pretty much ‘no bullshit’ - that makes us sound like Gordon Ramsay or something, but were both pretty sarcastic and like to swear a lot, so may be a good fit?

TK: What do you believe is the importance of digital media is in the PR world?
CW: Digital media is just as important as print these days. We know this, and have for a while now – however sometimes clients need convincing that a clipping on a website with 500,000 unique browers kicks the arse of a print page that sells about 20,000 copies.

St Augustine Academy, jewellery by Katzi,
heels by Arlecena

MJ: Coming from a digital media background (making my opinions totally biased..lol) I would argue that digital media is more important (to new designers) than print. Establishing your brand presence solely via print can take most new designers up to 18 months, if not longer. Yet with digital media there’s the potential to reach a global audience in a matter of days. However fashion is subjective and the interweb can be a razor sharp sword that cuts both ways. What in one blogger/editor’s opinion could be the greatest collection ever, may be in another blogger/editors opinion a steaming pile of student pretension and trust me, the comments attached to those types of blog posts will be brutal.
Either way, the old adage ‘there’s no such thing as bad publicity’ still applies. Providing your work is being discussed, it’s a win-win situation.

St Augustine Academy

TK: What kind of relationship do you have with your brands?
CW: An honest and open one, we hope. If there’s a problem on either side, we deal with it straight away. We want them to succeed, and we care about things that aren’t always related to PR services. If they come to us with personal worries, we may not be able to help, but we will always listen. And we like to assign our clients to family member roles – i.e we have a moody adolescent son, our baby who gets spoiled, the responsible older daughter, the hippie runaways and the eccentric adoptee. Depending on the day, there’s always a favourite!

TK: What advice do you have for new designers in the market?
CW: Have a business plan, for the love of God!! And be patient. And have rich parents.

TK: What keeps you motivated through the tough moments?
CW: Remembering that we work for ourselves, and no matter how shit our day is, we can always just take our laptop and work from home if you feel a sulk coming on!

TK: Where do you see the brand in five years time?
CW & MJ: Definitely not with our own reality show. How boring would that be? It would just be an hour of us talking, typing on our laptops, putting clothes in bags....and account keeping.

Matt and Candice

Time For A New Outlook

2011-07-22T16:21:00.000+12:00

Conventional wisdom suggests that change is good for you, so after a few years living and working at Muriwai, West Auckland we are moving Black HQ into the magnificent Waitakere Ranges, also west of Auckland. We have shot here at Muriwai extensively over the years and will always love the many charms and latent power of this place, not to mention the sunsets which range from sublime to spectacular. As a parting shot, here is one of the more impressive sunsets from the past week....

Blacklog Editorial #15: Vanishing Elephant Seen In Waiatarua by Russ Flatt

2011-07-14T21:48:00.001+12:00

In the middle of a cold and wet winter here in Aotearoa an indoor shoot is the go. In this casual and intimate study of Red 11's Jordan Barrett (above) and Tom Sheahan (below) photographer Russ Flatt and Black fashion director Rachael Churchward team to shoot Vanishing Elephant beside the fire, with the animals, whilst the rain thundered in and the Kauri trees creaked outside. Assistant fashion editor Jess Grubisa brought some of her nana's finest cookies as well as her usual fashion smarts and the other models are resident kitty cat Big Bruce and pup stars Quin and Tiki.

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL #14: Karen Walker AW 2011/12 by David K Shields

2011-07-05T17:47:00.001+12:00

David K Shields teamed with Rachael Churchward to shoot Karen Walker's tough-yet-ladylike AW 2011/12 collection in a Blacklog style on a cool, windy Muriwai day. Hair & make-up by Natalie Dent using M.A.C Cosmetics, model is Stephanie Mac at Red 11. All fashion by Karen Walker, jewellery by Karen Walker Jewellery, eyewear by Karen Walker Eyewear, shoes by Beau Coops for Karen Walker.

Sneak preview: Jessica Grubisa 4th year Whitecliffe's Collection

2011-07-05T17:24:00.000+12:00

Readers of the latest issue of Black will know how enamoured we are with Whitecliffes' Jessica Grubisa. The fourth year fashion student is a fine example of the maturing of the Whitecliffes fashion program under tutors like Belinda Watt. We are definitely seeing an increased array of skills and talent from schools like Whitecliffes, AUT and Massey in Wellington - and that's highly encouraging. As part of the final year of the fashion course, Whitecliffe's students are required to dress a window around town so if you have noticed a few new window displays, you now know why. Here are a few shots of the window as Jess created it at Workshop Newmarket that feature some of her painstakingly-crafted 'gem' dresses. She will show the full range along with other Whitecliffes students like Yun Do, Creina Brunton and Stephanie Au-Duong at her graduation show in November.

1st Wunderkammer Showroom Garage Sale

2011-07-04T19:24:00.000+12:00

Photo: David K. Shields

This Saturday and Sunday our friends at Wunderkammer are holding a garage sale that will tweak the interest of anyone who loves Commes des Garcons, Ann Demuelemeester, Costume National or Wunderkammer Jewellery. Everything: $25, $50, $100 or $150. Honest.

1st Wunderkammer Showroom Garage Sale
Sat 9th July 10am-6pm and Sun 10th July 11am-4pm
62 Ponsonby Road,
Ponsonby, Auckland
Ph: +64 9 360 4090